Elevator

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Chuck Nuffer

Last updated: 08/07/08



	Layout of the internal stiffeners are similar to the rudder.



	The left elevator will host the trim tab and electric trim motor.



	Use the extra length of hinge pin to incorporate a locking mechanism.



	We “pressed” a brass tube into the trim tab actuator horn to minimize slop (and future wear) in the clevis pin/actuator arm attach hole. We also replaced the “rolled” style piano hinge with an “extruded” type. This also improved the “slop” factor in the final assembly. We are quite pleased with the results.



	When cutting out the notches for the elevator horns, maintain a smooth and round inside corner. Sharp corners invite future cracks.



	Back rivet the stiffeners and counterbalance skin. A smooth steel plate worked best for the base. Use blue painter’s tape to hold the rivets in place while you move the assembly into position.



	Install nutplates which will be used for the trim motor cover/mount plate.



	A square jig is key to a square control surface – check it often for accuracy.



	How’s it look? Use your eyes to verify the counterbalance skin is square to the spar.

Use the edge forming tool to put a slight “hold down” crease where the rolled edges of the skins overlap. This will make for a better fitting elevator where it rolls inside the trailing side of the horizontal stabilizer.

warning…”do not cut the hinge pin”, as it will be used for clamping purposes.

The jig for the left elevator is more elaborate than the right elevator. Check often to ensure a square jig.

We will mount the fiberglass elevator tips using #6 philips head screws and nutplates.Horizontal Stab


	Elevators completed, Rick mounts them to the Horizontal stab. and checks everything for a good fit.

E-mail the Rocketmen:

Rick Mentel

Chuck Nuffer