Back riveting the rudder stiffeners. Be sure to orient the “L” correctly.
Use standard blue “painter’s tape” to hold the rivets in place.
A 2X rivet gun works fine for the -3 rivets.
Spar and rib attachment. Don’t forget to install the spar attach rivets before applying the skin!
Step 1. Make your own tools (or cut up a good one).
Rudder horn and bracket assembly.
Step 2. Remember the skills you obtained while playing with your “Erector Set
Yes, the pneumatic squeezer can be used – without damage to surrounding parts.
Apply whatever support is required in order to prevent a gap between the stiffener and skin while riveting.
How to dimple tight spots in three easy steps:
Step 3. Apply force with the “big boy” tools.
Left and right skins are finally mated.
The counter-weight skin was not long enough to extend to the end of the -003 rib, so we added a “tab” of extra material. This way, I was not so apt to bend the delicate skin over the edge of the rib on final assembly.
Have we already mentioned, don’t forget to rivet the spar to the rib assemby before attaching the skins? ….check….
Use proseal to join the trailing edges of the rudder skins. It can be mixed in portions by using an accurate letter scale.
Cleco the trailing edges of the skins to a solid (we used aluminum square tube) device while the proseal sets overnight. I would have taken more pictures during this process, but my fingers got “prosealed” to the camera.
Rudder in suspension while the proseal does it’s thing.
Next day. Remove the clecos and rivet the trailing edge.
Use lacquer thinner to unglue yourself from the rudder.
Alternate the rivets on the trailing edge. Start in the middle and work out toward the ends. Go every three or four holes at first, then come back and fill in the rest. Our ended up straight. Despite the extra time, it was well worth the effort.
According to Mark’s instruction, “form the skin in proper alignment with no force from the clecoes”. All we can say at this point is do your best.
Couldn’t figure out how to use the pneumatic squeezer for the LE rivets, so pull rivets it was.
Use duct tape (A.K.A. Arkansas welding rod) and tubing to carefully bend the LE skins. Don’t use ¾” copper – it’s too small. Most of this just takes time and hand forming to get the right bends. Careful not to crease the skin over the edge of the spar.
Oh, by the way, don’t forget the R-002 doublers!!!
